Boston Globe Review

Lots of reasons to love Hingham Harbor spot

January 18, 2009

The thing about Stars On Hingham Harbor, or plain old “Stars,” as everyone calls it, is that its devotees love it for many different reasons.

To some it’s a great breakfast place, others go for the extensive beer list, and still others go for the casual, family-friendly atmosphere and reasonable prices.

On a recent visit, I took my daughter to celebrate her birthday along with four of her friends. The 12- and 13-year-old girls devoured the sweet and spicy calamari ($7) and raved about the how the thick, sweet sauce complemented the lightly fried squid. They also enjoyed a tangy batch of boneless buffalo chicken fingers ($7) that were not only meaty and tender, but pretty darned spicy.

The linguine with chicken and broccoli ($14) was loaded with fresh broccoli and served in a garlicky olive oil and white wine sauce. The portion was so large that it served two generously. (It’s one of my favorite menu items and I always have plenty left over for a big lunch the next day.)

The cast-iron swordfish ($16) was served with a creamy rosemary vinaigrette alongside grilled asparagus and mashed potatoes.

Stars, which looks like an oversized, contemporary diner, has two distinct eating areas. The dining room is ringed with booths, and the tables in the middle are constantly being rearranged to accommodate small groups and larger parties.

The room features large windows that face Hingham Harbor, but the view is really more of busy Route 3A. But on a bright, sunny day, light floods the restaurant and you can see the glistening harbor on the other side of the rushing cars and trucks.

The bar area on the opposite side of the restaurant features four flat-screen TVs that are always tuned to sporting events, and on Saturday nights, it’s often packed with 20-somethings who stop in for the live entertainment and the aforementioned beer list. The bar area also has tables and booths for eating, but it can be noisy.

On another recent evening, I stopped in to try the early bird specials that I’ve noticed on the menu for the past year or so. Each menu offering is $10 and is available from 4 to 6 p.m. You can add a house salad for $1 or a Caesar salad for $2.

The 7-ounce sirloin steak was served with a large helping of tasty mashed potatoes and a generous bed of sautéed broccoli, onions, and red pepper. The petite steak wasn’t the best I’ve ever eaten, but it wasn’t bad and the whole meal was a bargain for the price.

The chicken cordon bleu was also a pretty good deal, with a generous portion of tasty chicken stuffed with ham and cheese and an enormous side of mashed potatoes.

Another good choice for penny-pinchers is the chicken Caesar salad ($10), which is served with a creamy Caesar dressing and grilled foccacia, or one of the burgers ($7 to $9), which are served on ciabatta rolls with french fries and are a tasty, hugely popular menu item.

Parking can be a challenge at Stars. The oddly shaped lot doesn’t have much room, but patrons are welcome to use the lots behind either Tosca or Tosca Café, sister restaurants of Stars that are within spitting distance.

I could also mention the clam chowder or the pancakes, or detail the beers on draft. But that can be for another day. At Stars, there’s always another reason to go back.

BY: MARY DONIUS

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